Stromboli with Snow

A very rare picture: Snow on the vulcano Stromboli, seen from Pizzo. Stromboli is located South West of Pizzo and part of the Eolie Islands.

Photo source: Franco P., Pizzo.

September 1st : Summer is Over for Italians

What a difference a day makes !

Today, the sea was fresher and cleaner.

A different smell in the air.

And no people at the beach !

Okay, about three elderly ladies with hats were having a chat in the shallow water.

No screaming children, no flying baseballs, no families of ten between me and the sea. No forgotten plastic bottles.

Just the peaceful sound of tiny waves and the far away church bells.

My mother-in-law explained to me, that the summer is over now.

At least Italian housewives would consider the summer as over and not go to the beach anymore. Even when the temperatures are still high and the water even more beautiful, they would only come to the beach on weekends.

In fact, today, on the beach, there were only these elderly ladies - and us. And a few grandchildren. But no men. All back at work.

We spent two wonderful hours in the water, chating and swimming and snorkling (the little one, not me) - and then back home for pranzo (lunch).

I will really enjoy my last days here in Calabria before I have to return back to the 'North' of Europe.


* * * Please Note : * * *

If you ever plan to visit Calabria - or any other Italian coast - don't come in August !

In August, about 30 million Italians are going on holiday.

The heat is unbearable.
This year, August was hotter then ever, the locals said.

The beaches are crowded.
No parking space available.
Traffic jam at night.

No seats at 10 pm in the gelaterie.
Worst service of the year in the restaurants.
And more garbage and more smelling.

Only the second weekend after Ferragosto (August 15th) people start to travel back home.

However, September 1st makes the difference.
No matter if it is just a Tuesday, like today.
There is this difference to yesterday, August 31st.

Today, summer is over - for Italians - and the best season starts !


(Above pic painting by me on one of these hot August days when none of us wanted to go to the crowded beach.)

Calabria Favorites on flickr

Click to enlarge:

1. Capo Vaticano, 2. in the metal sun (manchicani chi caddu), 3. Capo Vaticano, 4. The Square, 5. Caminia, 6. Capolino, 7. bagliore: ore 8, 8. corner of.....paradise, 9. par-asol, 10. complementari, 11. sunset show, 12. blue striped, 13. Pizzo Calabro, 14. Pizzo Calabro, 15. Pizzo Calabro, 16. Castello aragonese Murat di Pizzo di sera, 17. Beach Life Soverato Italy, 18. Pizzo Calabro Calabria, 19. 01, 20. pizzo calabro 02, 21. pizzo calabro 03, 22. decorazioni, 23. Pizzo Calabro, 24. gazing at the sea

Can't get enough of these beautiful impressions of bella Calabria !
And there are so many more on flickr. Just start here !

The countdown for our summer vacation in Calabria has started.
I have not packed yet. But my camera, watercolor and sketchbook will be in !

Par-asol by pannaphotos

*

Reading TRAVELLERS CALABRIA

In my hands I am holding the brand new Thomas Cook travellers guide about Calabria, written in English by Lara Dunston and Terry Carter. The photography is by the later. What a team!

And how lucky am I to have won one copy that I found in my mail yesterday ! Just in time before our holiday in Calabria. Thanks to Michelle from Bleeding Espresso, who has organized a lucky draw on her blog after having interviewed Lara for five days in a row. Grazie tutti!

I am so excited to read about Tropea and Pizzo and the restaurants and trips they recommend. I am surprised about some photo selection (by the editor?). The guide does not feature the common postcard motives. So I had to look twice to recognize the road winding down to Pizzo's waterfront (p.65). Interesting new angles, and a statue at the piazza of Pizzo that I have missed so far (p.64).

But of course I found already something to nag about :
What has a mafia crime to do in a history sheet of Calabria (p.11, 2007-2008) ?

I deem more interesting that in the past years tourism and real estate business are awakening slowly from a long sleep.

And as we are "Pizzitani", I need to be fussy about Pizzo's history:
The French general Joachim Murat who was shot at the castle of Pizzo in 1815 was King of Naples and Sicily at that time. He was Napoleon Bonaparte's brother-in-law and on the run after Napoleon's fall (p.11, 65).

By far I do know less about Calabria than Lara and Tery, the guide writers, know by now. However, from the few locations I know that worth a trip, I think Seminara deserves to be mentioned. This little village is a shopping must for ceramic lovers while in Calabria.

And what about the Holy Grail in Badolato ?

Okay, enough nagging.

Great ! Pizzo is no. 2 in the guidbook's top 10 of highlights in Calabria, right after Tropea! And thanks for the "elegant piazza" in Pizzo, which is (nag nag) slightly exagerated (p.21). The piazza is not that elegant, however the lively heart of the village.

The introduction to Calabria is pinpointing excatly how I feel about this region, its landscape, people, food and customs. Great writing !

Lara recommends not to travel to Calabria in the month of August (remark: I would say to any Italian coast) - which I will do ! We cannot travel other then the main school holidays. And I can say, it is crowded everywhere and some popular public beaches around Capo Vaticano are crazy busy. But there are so many beautiful beaches that you always find your space !

That's all for know. I just started to read. And I will try the restaurants in Pizzo that are mentioned in this new Calabria guide book: Le Castellane, La Lamia and Toscano. From the later I know that they serve great pizza at a cosy corner with great sunset views.

CONCULSION: this is a great comprehensive guide, handy and light, ideal for anyone who spends a long weekend or summer holiday in Calabria.

You can order the Travellers Calabria guide via amazon.com - or hope to find it at the airports in Lamezia Terme and Reggio Calabria.

Calabria through an artist's eye

"Sono una fotografa per caso" - she is a photographer by accident, describes Anna (aka pannaphotos) herself at flickr.

I am totally fascinated by her pictures - photos that sometimes look like paintings.

The above picture "gazing at the see" is taken by Anna at the piazza in Pizzo. I screen captured it... I hope this is okay with the artist.

In her Calabria set at flickr you will find some more gems of Calabria's beauty and charme. I marked some of Anna's work as my favorites of flickr.

(click on the photograph to go to the source)

New: Calabria Guide Book

Travellers Calabria (Travellers - Thomas Cook)

This English guide book is written by blogger friend Lara Dunston and her husband Terry Carter who also does the photographs.

Book Description (via amazon)
New for 2009, "Travellers Calabria is Ideal" for visitors to Italy's southernmost region, a beguiling fusion of wild mountains, pristine beaches, crystal-clear seas and delightful hill towns. Expert advice guides you straight to the best sights and experiences. Suggested Itineraries and Highlights sections to help you make the most out of your trip. The book features detailed background on people, geography, culture and history; clear and accurate mapping including suggested walks and tours; full colour photography throughout; impartial and dependable sleeping, eating and entertainment listings; and, comprehensive coverage of the region's best, including: Catanzaro, Cosenza, Reggio Calabria, Aspromonte, Scilla and Tropea.

Product Details
Paperback: 192 pages
Publisher: Thomas Cook Publishing; First edition (May 19, 2009)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1848481403
ISBN-13: 978-1848481404

Lara reflects on her travelling at cool travel guide. While in Calabria last year, researching for the above book, she posted the following:
Calabria: Europe's best value destination
10 Reasons to travel to Calabria - part I
10 Reasons to travel to Calabria - part II

I will make sure to order my copy on time before my summer holiday in Calabria !

Successful fellow blog in Calabria: Bleeding Espresso

'Michelle Fabio, an American writer and attorney leaves the Anthracite Coal Region of Pennsylvania for her family's ancestral village in Calabria, Italy, falls in love, gets two dogs, writes to her heart's content and begins bleeding espresso. No really.'

I can't say it in better words, so I let Michelle introduce herself. She and her blog are located in the small village Badolato in Calabria, just on the other side of Pizzo.


I discovered her blog when she left a comment on mine. Since then I am following her writings with interest. She is a talented writer who has besides writing a broad interest in many things like travel, literature, culture, history, politics, Italy & Calabria, photography AND cooking !

She also writes among others for
About.com as a Guide to Law School,
Guarda! a weekly column for Italy Magazine,
easyJet, the airline's Destination Guide to Lamezia Terme, TomatoCasual.com and Italian Notebook.

The latest news is that her blog Bleeding Espresso entered the final of the acknowledged 2009 bloggies awards in the category 'best european blog' !

Go here and vote for Bleeding Espresso, the blog that promotes Calabria, as 'best European blog' ! (Hurry, until February 2nd only !)


It is now almost a year ago, when I was in Pizzo and phoned Michelle, my Calabrian fellow blogger. We said we will visit each other one day, or we could meet in the middle, in Serra San Bruno.
Michelle, when you win this blog award, you and P are invited for tartuffo ice in Pizzo! (and if not: you are invited the same!)

Daytrip to SCILLA

Our Fiat was leading us up and down the mountains on curvy and narrow streets, on the old national road towards Scilla. This small pittoresque town is located on the Straits of Messina, just before Reggio Calabria, the toe tip of the Italian boot.

After Nicotera, above Palmi, on Monte Sant'Elia we made our first breath taking pitstop. From 600 meters above sea level you have 180 degree sea view with the Calabrian coast line underneath and Sicilly in the South. You can't tell where the sea ends and the sky starts. It feels like flying.

A few kilometers further South we finally reached Scilla.
To find a parking spot at an Italian sea side village in the middle of August is like winning the lottery. Especially because our Italian family has grown to a party of nine in two Fiats.

Having lost and found sight of half of the group and having solved the different priorities, like visiting the old town, having lunch or finding a beach, we visited the town by strolling down one small aley at the Marina to finally jump into the refreshing sea at a small beach near a small church.


It happened that we met a local gentile signore who not only gave us the same hint for the restaurant we got from another amico, but he also gave my son a collection of shells.

The recommended restaurant 'Glauco' was only 50 meters from our little beach and made us all happy. When we climed up the stairs to the restaurant, I was overwhelmed by the terrace 'sul mare' and its beautiful view of Scilla on the left and the coast on the right.


I immediately had to think of the movie 'The big Blue' where Enzo (Jean Reno) had to eat Mama's pasta on a similar terrace.

To top my impression, Dino, the owner of the restaurant, gave my son a few more shells.

I ordered spaghetti Glauco - they come with a sun dried tomato sauce and pine seeds - and had some white wine and was happy for the rest of the day. (photo left: linguine cozze e vongole)


(Maybe I should also mention, that the restaurant was all ours, as it was around 2.30 pm when we arrived from the beach.)

Back home, I realized that I had lost something to Scilla...
The red pants of my son, he jumped in the sea with, that are still drying on a fisherboat.

*******
RISTORANTE GLAUCO
via Annunziata 95, Chianalea
89058 Scilla (Reggio Calabria)
Tel./Fax +390965 754026

open from February to end of November

Antipasto Misto Mare 8,00 Euro
Spaghetti alla Glauco 12,00 Euro
Linguine Cozze e Vongole 12,00

"Cool Travel Guide" about Calabria

Remember the travel writer team that was looking for an accommodation in Calabria with Internet access? Lara and her partner Thierry have been travelling across Calabria end of May and early June to research, write and photograph this Southern Italian region for a new English guidebook.

Although the guidebook is not published yet, I have some of Lara's thoughts about Calabria ... because she is blogging about her travel writing at Cool Travel Guide.


She has "10 Reasons to travel to Calabria" to read in part I and part II.

Pizzo is one of them!
And other than in the usual travel guide books were everything is seen from the bright side, Lara writes in her travel blog also about the other side of the story.

Here Lara's description "Pizzo: with elegant palazzi perched precariously on steep cliffs overlooking the ocean and a charming old town that's a tiny tangle of pastel-painted houses, narrow lanes and steep stairs reminiscent of Positano. Unfortunately, tourists outnumber the locals at the gelateria tables on the main piazza, and one too many shops have given over to tacky souvenirs, however, wander the pretty backstreets where life goes on as ever and you'll smell the mouthwatering aromas of lunch being cooked and find women hanging out washing over their balconies."

Her comment about Pizzo make me remember, that Pizzo has some potential for improvements. Different from her comment (above). And I am looking forward to my next trip to Pizzo (soon!) to meet some old and new friends, some Pizzitani, who think alike. I will try to keep you posted!

During the weeks Lara and her partner have spent crisscrossing Calabria to research the new guidebook they were relieved to find the southern Italian region to be such terrific value. They consider Calabria: Europe's best value destination

And here is the link to all of her posts about Calabria

At the moment, Lara and Thierry are still in Italy, right now in Milano, to further research and write for a travel guide book about Northern Italy. She has posted some interesting observations about Italians as well, here and here!

Pizzo Calabro - Spring Impressions

Old train station in Pizzo.





Since yesterday my parents are in Calabria for the first time. And they saw Pizzo and the house for the first time. I hope they like it.

Unfortunately the weather is not very spring like. It is rainy and fresh... I hope they will get some sunshine the next days, because everything looks so much friendlier when the sun shines on it!

It is not that the house and the location need to please my parents, but I would like to hear that they will come again - when the house is ready and the weather warmer.

Calabria and Travelling Back in Time

My MIL's cousin's wife wrote the second part of her story (see part I). It is about how she felt in love with Calabria. And I realised that we are both fascinated about something in Calabria that has to do with travelling back in time and with learning how to enjoy the simple life. Please read her travel experience:

In 1997 me, my son and L. (my MIL) took the sleeper from Mestre to Pizzo. Don't think of it in terms of "Orient Express" cause we are really miles and miles away from that. In Italy, modern and updated things stop in Rome, than, everything becomes Far West or Bronx as you said...

But, we arrived safe and N. (MIL's friend) was waiting for us at the station. That was the first time I met her and suddenly for me it was like paying a visit to a nice aunt. She gave us a delicious tomato sauce for our first pasta at home.


I have not been back in Calabria since '92 and was prepared to find things unchanged. But, little by little things in the house were improving due to many small renovations L. did during our stay. Lack of water was sometimes a problem but I sensed it in a bohemian way. Thanks to L. again I was figuring out better my approach to Southern way of living which is totally different for a person coming from the ultra operative North. From that year on I met and knew lots of friendly people always available to help and share with you what they have. Every year I can't miss the 'pantagruelian' (enormous) dinners of N. - each summer she cooks for around 10-15 persons in the typical southern way - I mean frying, baking, stuffing.... It's very difficult to stay in shape until the end of the vacations.

Through the years I've had the time to realize how wonderful the sea was, crystal waters and nice beaches that have nothing to envy to the Caribbeans.


Besides, I like how the natives are so bound to popular traditions, how they decorate and adorn the streets, the churches and the pure simple fun they have during the days dedicated to celebrate the Saint of the village.


It seems as they're still living in the 50ies. In the North we've almost totally lost this kind of genuine attitude.

You see now how positive I've become and I would go on telling you how many beautiful aspects I find in every situation.


I really like her narration. I experience the same every summer. And after I realised that I especially enjoy our stays in Calabria due to that feeling of travelling back in time, I know better than before how to decorate our palazzo. I definitely do not want to see too much (or any at all) modern furniture in our house. I really enjoy the simple decoration of my family's vacation apartment. It is still decorated like back in the 60ies, 70ies when my husband was born. This orange lamp in the kitchen, the chairs, the tiles ... It is like coming home after travelling the world. And I want to have a similar feeling in the palazzo.


Check the writing and pictures of sognatrice at bleeding espresso... She moved from the US to the little village of her ancestors in Calabria. A real travel back in time.

Photos 1 - 7:
Fiat 500 in Pizzo; one of N.'s famous pasta dishes, near Capo Vaticano via flickr; Pizzo Marina; fiesta della Madonna del Carmine; fishermen at La Seggiola; il trenino a Vibo Marina - the little train that my husband took as a little boy more than 30 years ago - and it still travels from 7pm until midnight all summer long.

Calabria in the 90ies

I got a very interesting email from one of my favorite Italian family members in Venice, my mother-in-law's cousin's wife.

In her mail she told me her first impressions about her first holiday in Calabria back in the early 90ies. Read what she wrote:

(...) I'm so fond of all Calabria that coming there on vacation for me now it's like coming back home. I feel so comfortable and enjoy all the aspects of the surroundings. But, it hasn't been so since the very beginning. Let me tell you my first terrible impressions of the first time I arrived there.

It happened in 1992, after a never ending journey by car. The house had been closed for many years and we arrived in July. It was hot of course and no air conditioning nor ventilation in it. Many times I slept in the beach-chair on the terrace. Along with the bad impression I had of the constructions which always seems so uncompleted and ruined, most of the time we hadn't water for showers or cooking. We had to spend part of the day stocking bottles and bottles of water for the main necessities.

I was desperate and wanted to go home. Much probably I wasn't in the mood to accept those things cause we mostly spent our holidays in the mountains in Suedtirol where everything is so accurate, clean, tidy, you know what I mean.
Anyway I couldn't help it and we finished our vacation.
Next time I'll tell you how I changed my mind.


The 'house' she is talking about is the appartment of my in-laws in Vibo Marina, 4km from Pizzo. Here, my husband spent the first 6 years of his live. When his parents, originally from Northern Italy moved on, they kept this home as the family's holiday residence.

I really appreciate this story as it is so true. I had the same experience back in 1996! I spent the first summer in Calabria with my husband (boyfriend at that time). It was an adventure for both of us! He hasn't been back there for years.

Of course meanwhile many things have improved, we got aircondition and water is secured. Even the construction ruine of 30 years in front of the house is finished and painted since last year.

I am curious to read the prosecution about how she felt in love with Calabria. Thank you for sharing!

picture 1: taken 2006 at restaurant Go, view of Vibo Marina, picture 2: taken 2005 at my family's house, view of Vibo Marina's port

The Clock of the South

My son, 4 years, is still suffering from the 'southern jet lag'. The clock of the South ticks different from the one in the North. There is a long break in the afternoon. People and of course children have a nap (fare il pisolino) after a late lunch. It is just too hot to do anything else. Then in the evening after dinner, that normally does not start before 8.30 pm people go out for a walk in the street. There is a little train (here in Vibo Marina) for children that drives around in a circle since more than 30 years. It is still the attraction for the local children. The engine is from a Vespa and real smoke comes out of the chemine. This train does not start before 7.30 pm. The last circles of the train, you can here the horn all over the bay, are around 11.30 pm. And there are still plenty of children in the street. Of course it is summer holiday and no school.

Some days ago we went to an open air concert of the 'Policia del Stato' in la piazza in Pizzo. It started at 9 pm and when we left around 10.30pm there were still families with little children arriving. Children in strollers and children with milk bottles in their hands.

But my son is still wondering why he has to sleep in the middle of the day. And when he gets up he asks for breakfast. And when the sun goes down he is getting nervous, because he thinks he needs to go to bed again. Some days ago he said: 'Italien ist komisch' (Italy is stange).

Map of Calabria

click for zoom
In case you wonder where this little magic spot Pizzo (not 'pizza') is located - here is a map. It is almost at the end of the Italian 'shoe'. After the 'toes' comes Sicily. Driving from Pizzo to Sicily shows you some breathtaking views on one of the most beautiful coast roads in Europe.